4wd IWE
#1
4wd IWE
I know this is not a new issue and has been discussed ad nauseum to some, but I think I have a new twist to this discussion on the IWE problems that I could use some info on. I had a 2015 F150 that had the same issue, new hubs and actuators resolved the problem. I had to upgrade from that truck so now I have the 3.5L Eco.
Not sure where to begin. I had changed out my brake pads and had rotors turned when they let me know it was time due to some noise coming from the front end, After putting the left front drivers side tire on, noticed a bit of rocking top to bottom. Went ahead and put a new hubs assembly on. Get it back on the road and there was the grinding noise. Since I had a bit of history with it, figured actuators were bad. Replaced those with aftermarket parts. Still grinding away.
So at that point my knowledge was spent. After research and money, many claimed check valve and solenoid took care of theirs. Not on mine.Took it to the Ford professionals at that point. Said they found vacuum leak going to the driver's front and needed new hubs, actuator, cvj, and the vacuum line, and needed $2200 to fix it.They were trying to get me I feel. I had a buddy tow it home and I paid for the diagnostics.
Got all the parts for about $450 and replaced them all. I am here because grinding is still there. Took it to a local mechanic (mistake), and after 2 weeks he said it was a servo or something to that extent. Drove fine for 3 days and now grinding away. List of replaced parts
Drivers side hub, actuator, cvj, Passenger side acuator, vacuum line, check valve, solenoid, U joint on driveshaft due to some chunking when going from D to Park.
I will mention grinding goes away when in 4wd. Grinding starts at 30-35 mph in 2wd, goes away when I take my foot off the gas. Right back when accelerating.
I hold 20 in/lbs at both actuators, and at the top of new vacuum line. I can pull vacuum on the check valve and solenoid releases as should. Hook up to the solenoid, start truck, and it pulls around 18.
I guess what I'm asking, what would make me lose vacuum as I accelerate?
Not sure where to begin. I had changed out my brake pads and had rotors turned when they let me know it was time due to some noise coming from the front end, After putting the left front drivers side tire on, noticed a bit of rocking top to bottom. Went ahead and put a new hubs assembly on. Get it back on the road and there was the grinding noise. Since I had a bit of history with it, figured actuators were bad. Replaced those with aftermarket parts. Still grinding away.
So at that point my knowledge was spent. After research and money, many claimed check valve and solenoid took care of theirs. Not on mine.Took it to the Ford professionals at that point. Said they found vacuum leak going to the driver's front and needed new hubs, actuator, cvj, and the vacuum line, and needed $2200 to fix it.They were trying to get me I feel. I had a buddy tow it home and I paid for the diagnostics.
Got all the parts for about $450 and replaced them all. I am here because grinding is still there. Took it to a local mechanic (mistake), and after 2 weeks he said it was a servo or something to that extent. Drove fine for 3 days and now grinding away. List of replaced parts
Drivers side hub, actuator, cvj, Passenger side acuator, vacuum line, check valve, solenoid, U joint on driveshaft due to some chunking when going from D to Park.
I will mention grinding goes away when in 4wd. Grinding starts at 30-35 mph in 2wd, goes away when I take my foot off the gas. Right back when accelerating.
I hold 20 in/lbs at both actuators, and at the top of new vacuum line. I can pull vacuum on the check valve and solenoid releases as should. Hook up to the solenoid, start truck, and it pulls around 18.
I guess what I'm asking, what would make me lose vacuum as I accelerate?
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12-30-2011 08:59 PM
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